The Flavor of Kyoto
Leo's Kyoto travel notes 2022
This is the third post in my Social Observation Series, following my reflections on #1 Thoughts on China's Stringent Regulations on the Tutoring Industry and #2 The Tea House around the Corner.
Today's topic is my travel notes from a recent trip to Kyoto, Japan, which I visited for the first time in December 2022.
My initial encounter with Kyoto is from one of my favorite movies, "Wasabi." The 2001 French-Japanese film, which stars Jean Reno and Ryōko Hirosue, was shot in Japan, with most scenes taking place in Tokyo, but it also features a few minutes at the Kiyomizu Temple in Kyoto. This was the first time I had become interested in the city, dating back to my childhood.
In short, Kyoto to me is like an old Japanese movie come to life. Walking through the city feels like walking through a scene from an old film.
I've compiled my major observations into four parts: the general feeling of the city, the Nanzenji Temple and the Lake Biwa Canal, the K-car, and the people and spirit.
As I have not lived in Japan for an extended period of time, I understand that my perceptions may be limited. I welcome any corrections or further insights on my observations.
A glance of the city
Kyoto is a city of subtle sounds. The low-decibel environment allows for the appreciation of previously unnoticed sounds, such as the tone of traffic lights. This level of background noise is ideal, providing a sense of not being alone, yet not being disturbed.
Kyoto has a rich history, having served as the economic and political center of Japan. Interesting fact - Even today, Japan has no official capital, but in 2017, the Government of Japan decided to move the Agency for Cultural Affairs from Tokyo to Kyoto.
The city's history is well-preserved, with tall buildings being a rare sight, particularly in the central area around the Kyoto Imperial Palace. This preservation of history is a valuable and difficult achievement.
One side effect of this preservation is that the city is spread out, making vending machines a useful tool for navigating this geographic condition. These machines offer a wide range of both cold and hot drinks (differentiated in blue and red buttons in below picture), particularly convenient during the winter months.
Kyoto is more than just a tourist destination. It is also a leading manufacturing city in Japan and a hub for high-technology industry. Notable companies from the area include Kyocera (Kyoto + Ceramics), Nintendo, and Omron.
Nanzenji Temple and The Lake Biwa Canal
Nanzenji Temple stands out as a highlight of my visit to Kyoto.
Geographically, the city is surrounded by mountains from 3 directions, and Nanzenji nestled within the Eastern mountain range, the temple exudes grandeur and serenity in equal measure.
Today’s story is about the waterway pavilion of Nanzenji Temple, known as the Lake Biwa Canal.
This ambitious project was initiated in 1881, as a means of reviving the city after the shift of power from Kyoto to Tokyo. The construction of the canal, along with the development of hydropower, was one of three initiatives taken by local government to rejuvenate the city.
The Lake Biwa Canal project was a monumental undertaking, requiring a budget that doubled the annual expenditure of Kyoto, and the mobilization of over four million workers. It was completed in 1890, after nearly a decade of construction.
Interestingly, at a time when the design and supervision of major civil engineering projects in Japan were typically conducted by foreign engineers, the Lake Biwa Canal project was entirely executed by Japanese engineers, from drawing plans to managing construction. The chief engineer of this massive project, Sakuro Tanabe, was just 21 years old and had recently graduated from the Imperial College of Engineering (present-day Faculty of Engineering at Tokyo University). I hold great respect for both Sakuro Tanabe and the individuals who made the crucial decision at that time.
The Lake Biwa Canal project was a result of the tireless efforts of several mayors of Kyoto, and its completion was no mean feat, given the unprecedented cost and long construction period. Significant work may not be finished by one generation. The question of how to design a mechanism to keep multi-generational and multi-tenure projects running is an important one, and not just for projects, but also for companies, nations, and civilizations.
Today, the Lake Biwa Canal serves as a foundation for the manufacturing industry in Kyoto and continues to operate efficiently.
K-car
K-cars, also known as Japanese city cars or microcars, are a ubiquitous presence in Kyoto.
At their peak, they accounted for over 40% of domestic new car sales in Japan.
I am intrigued by the factors that have led to the widespread use of K-cars in Kyoto. There are several reasons for this phenomenon in my view.
1 Economic consideration
First and foremost, economic considerations play a major role. K-cars are generally more affordable and have lower vehicle purchase taxes compared to full-size cars. This is particularly appealing to consumers who value cost-effectiveness. It became a thing after WW2 when value for money is an important consideration for consumers. Even small, a K-car is typically fully equipped.
Additionally, K-cars have lower fuel consumption and maintenance costs, which is beneficial for a country that imports oil.
2 Geographic consideration
Geographic considerations also play a role in the popularity of K-cars in Kyoto. The design of urban roads in the city, with their narrow streets and high population density, makes K-cars easy to navigate.
Furthermore, parking lot design in Kyoto often prioritizes space-efficiency, making K-cars a practical choice.
3 Alternatives
Finally, the availability of alternative forms of transportation, such as the Shinkansen, reduces the need for personal vehicles, further increasing the appeal of K-cars in Kyoto.
Overall, the combination of economic, geographic, and alternative transportation factors contribute to the prevalence of K-cars in Kyoto.
People and Spirit
1 Inamori Kazuo, founder of Kyocera and KDDI
You have to look inward and see whether you are working out of self-interests.
To provide opportunities for the material and intellectual growth of all our employees, and through our joint efforts, contribute to the advancement of society and humankind.
He is a trailblazer, a true legend whose life story is not only inspiring, but also a valuable source of knowledge and insight. I highly recommend delving into his legacy through the various books and documentaries that have been produced about him. His passing is a great loss, and he will be remembered and celebrated for years to come.
2 Sakuro Tanabe, Chief engineer of Lake Biwa Canal (mentioned above)
Below is one piece from Sakuro Tanabe’s journal, which I found at the Lake Biwa Canal Museum.
It is not how much we do, but how well. The will to do, the soul to dare.
3 Tsunekichi Okura, the 11th head of Gekkeikan (famous Japanese manufacturer of sake, one of the largest sake manufacturer in US market)
My takeaway of Gekkeikan’s success: Pioneering use case innovation + Implementation of scientific methodology + Continuous reflection on past failures.
3-1 Use case innovation
The Tokaido Line, linking Shimbashi (Tokyo) and Kobe, was fully opened in 1889. Rail networks spread even further in the 20th century. Tsunekichi Okura came up with the idea of selling "station sake" along with station boxed lunches. Okura-style sake bottles with drinking cup was designed and chosen for the sake to sell at stations. With the launch of this new product in 1910, the name of Gekkeikan started spreading over the entire country, following the expanding railway network.
3-2 Scientific methodology
In 1909, Tsunekichi opened the Sake Brewing Research Institute, which was the first of its kind established by a sake brewer. He brought in new technologies and techniques to improve quality, introduced bottled sake at a time when barreled sake was still the standard, and was the first to develop bottled sake without the use of preservatives, which proved to be a hit in the market.
3-3 Reflection
Gekkeikan has a "Precautions Notebook" that serves as a reminder to not repeat past failures, emphasizing the importance of continuous improvement and self-reflection.
Lastly, after trying six different varieties of Gekkeikan sake, I found that Horin 鳳麟 stood out as my favorite. Its smooth finish and nuanced flavor profile left a lasting impression, making it a must-try for any sake enthusiast.
Thanks for your reading and I hope you enjoy it. Stay safe and see you next time.